Wednesday, June 28, 2006



Time for an update....Sorry for the big delay between posts....things have been a little hectic lately.

So, after witnessing the window wedding proposal it was pretty easy to fall into the rythm of normal everyday life. School in the morning, study in the afternoon, time with friends in the evening. Then there was sleep...sleep is over rated! Who needs sleep anyway?!?!

Then came Sankt Peterburg, City of Heroes! An absolutely amazing city! I wish we had been able to spend more time there. 4 days and 3 nights was not enough. All said and done, I am happy to have made the 8 hour train ride in each direction.

For me Saint Petersburg was like the rest of my Russian experience. I wasn't sure if I wanted to go, and then didn't want to leave after I got there. For starters, we were living less than 2 blocks from the Kazan Cathedral. WOW!

The people were considerably more friendly than Muscovites, and they seemed to understand what foreigners were and didn't have a problem with you just for being one. If you asked for directions on the street, they would actually try to answer you as opposed to ignoring you or ridiculing you. It was a nice change of pace. That being said, don't think that I didn't enjoy Moscow, because I loved it. Every large city has its quirks. You just have to learn to accept them and move on.

There were some major differences in St. Pete when compared to Moscow. Let's start with the canal system that runs throughout the entire city. St. Pete was built by Peter the Great on top of a marsh that should have been uninhabitable. Without the canals, the city would probably be under the Neva River or the Baltic Sea. He actually imported artisans and materials from all over Europe to build the city.

The architectural style was totally different from Moscow. The buildings are very european and uniform in shape and size, nothing at all like the grand scale and colossal structures built by Stalin to demonstrate Soviet might to the rest of the world.

While in St. Pete, I was able to see the Bronze Horseman statue, see St. Isaac's Cathedral, tour the Hermitage museum, go to the theatre, cross the Baltic Sea by hydrofoil and tour Peterhoff the summer palace of the Czar's. We toured St. Paul's cathedral inside the Peter and Paul Fortress, and saw the resting places of the Czar's. It was an absolutely amazing journey!

Some highlights of St. Petersburg...

One of the funniest things that happend in St. Pete was going to the theatre to see a folk performance called, "Feeling me Russian". This particular performance fell into the category of things that we were required to attend. Since we were not given a choice about attendance, I have to admit to being less than thrilled about going to the show. To my surprise, the performance was much more entertaining than I expected. It actually was entertaining!

During the performance the theater troupe put on quite a display of musical talent and folk dancing. The music mostly consisted of accordian play, guitar, and a brass section. It was really very interesting to see all of the changes of costume combined with the physical demand of the folk dances. The performers really worked hard to put on a good show. Of all of the live performances I have seen in the theater, this was one of the better.

During the performance, I got the shock of my life! Halfway through the show, I was selected randomly from the audience to dance onstage with the troupe! Normally I would not be shy about something like this, but I have to admit to being a little embarrassed about being caught off guard. Fortunately, my partner was merciful and did not make me look like an idiot.

When I was picked from the audience, I was terrified that my leg was not going to be able to tolerate the demand of the steps, but everything worked out okay in the end. I am grateful to have had the experience and to have survived unscathed.

We celebrated the experience by going to this place called Fidel's that evening. Fidel's is an "invitation only" bar on the first floor of what looks like a burned out building located about a block away from the university campus where we were staying.

"Invitation only" means that if the owner and the doorman don't know you, or don't like how you look (ethnically), you are not invited. I know that may sound uncool to people in America, but Russians don't have the pretense of "political correctness" to curb their feelings about outsiders. It's just another one of those things in the category of, "That's the way it is".

I wasn't sure why they called it "Fidel's" until I got inside and saw the vintage mosaic of a young Fidel Castro on the back wall behind the DJ. The mosaic was modeled after one of the famous photos of Fidel taken during a political rally shortly after seizing power in 1959. What a hoot! There he was on the wall, army greens, black beard and cigar, putting a fist in the air as a show of defiance.

I have to admit we sort of fell into Fidel's by chance. After the performance Miroslav, Patrick, Aaron, Chris, and Myself happened to be walking by looking for somewhere to go and decided to try our luck at the door. Fortunately for us, Miroslav was a charmer and was able to convince the owner to let us in. That evening ended up being probably one of the best nights I had the entire month.

For starters, the DJ did the unthinkable. He played 1960's Britpop from 11pm until 4am. I never would have thought a crowd of twentysomething's would have been into it, but they clearly loved it. He played Searchers, Hollies, Turtles, and Beatles nonstop and the dance floor never cleared. In fact, there was a point when the entire place was dancing together because you couldn't move an inch without bumping into the person next to you. The house was packed from the doors in the front, to the bathroom in the back of the bar. What a good time!

Speaking of the bathroom, there was only one in the whole place. 2 Stalls with doors for the ladies, a side room with 5 urinals for the men, and 2 common sinks for all. It seemed weird at first, but it's funny how fast you can learn to accept what's different when you are having a good time.

There was definitely a feel good vibe in the place. The whole crowd seemed to be possessed by what I affectionately call "perma-grin". You know perma-grin. It's that stupid permanent grin you get when you are having a good time with friends, and you don't realize you have been smiling like a lunatic all night. Everyone had it, and it was funny. I must have had an especially strong case, because my face hurt the next morning like someone had put each of my cheeks in a vise! I would go back in a heart beat.

The day after our "Fidel's" experience, we went to the Hermitage Museum around 10am. I am still not sure how everyone made it, but somehow we did. The sun never seemed so bright, but I was still smiling from the night before.

Words cannot express my opinion about the Hermitage Museum. What an absolutely amazing collection of priceless artwork in an unexpected location. I was able to see everything from Renoir to Da Vinci, and all things in between. Trying to see so much art in such a short period of time is not a realistic goal. I know that there is no way that I could have done the museum justice. One afternoon in a place of that magnitude is almost embarrassing to admit, but you do the best you can with what you have. To put it all in perspective, I read once that if you spent 8 seconds viewing every piece of art in the museum it would take you 3 years to finish the musuem.

While in St. Pete I had the distinct Russian experience of Bania. Bania means bath just like in other languages, and bania is a bath house in russia. After 2 weeks with no hot water and temperatures in the 40's and 50's F, it was great to get into a hot shower. It was also great to spend an evening in the sauna.

Seeing the Cathedral of the Resurrection (The saviour-on-the-Blood) is something I will never forget. The scale of the building, the color of the spires, the textures of the domes and their similarities to St. Basil's Cathedral in Red Square in Moscow. I have to admit being a little awe struck.

For me, St. Petersburg was boat rides, and bus tours, and trips to incredible historical landmarks. St. Petersburg really is the city of heroes. I loved it!

Thursday, June 01, 2006

Half way....

So much has happened since my last post but let's try to catch up.

The weekend. Loads of fun. Spent most of the weekend socializing with friends and exploring the city. As I am sure you know I have always been a fan of good food, good conversation, and good times. I was lucky enough this weekend to do all of the above.

Went over to a friends after class. Taught them how to play hold 'em. Card games are universal. Got lost on the way home and had to take the bus instead of the Metro. I knew the ride was going to be interesting when we got on the bus, because the driver's cigarette was hanging from his lips and he was drinking a 32 oz. Jaguar. Jaguar is an "Alco-Energy" drink. Basically it's a "bull blaster". Red Bull and Vodka...maybe more like espresso and vodka...anyway it was big and he seemed to be enjoying his day. We got stuck in traffic 10 minutes later and he turned the bus off and decided to get off for a stretch....with a bus full of people!

After crawling under the turnstyle to get off the bus we walked in a park. Moments Later we found out that cars avoiding the traffic jam would drive down the foot path at 25mph and not use their horn. The first one came from behind, but we dove into the grass quick enough to get away. The driver thought it was hilarious. He continued down the foot path, barreled into the crosswalk in his car, went right past the police man directing traffic, and turned on to the next street and disapeared. This happened about 4 different times so it must be customary. Going to have to stick with the Metro!

Friday night, stayed in until about 11pm and then went with friends to a place called Propaganda! Talk about irony. A club named propaganda in Moscow!! Even Muscovites appreciate a good joke. Propaganda is one of the oldest night clubs in the city. It was interesting to hang out and see how locals socialize. Lots of dancing and interesting electronic music. The club was a little dark, but we had a good time. I met a Canadian guy named Dave who works as a chef on a yacht. He has been here since February, but was leaving for Barcelona on Monday! Lucky bastard!! I bet Costa Brava is amazing in the summer. I am going to have to check that out some time.

We have also been having some good laughs about this guy named Herbert from Austria. He was very excited to meet Americans in the club, but we all suspect it's because he was there to pick up men! Whoah, nelly!!

Saturday, we had an excursion. That translates as a scheduled, but fly by the seat of you pants, trip to somewhere you have never been. We ended up riding a bus for about 4 hours to get to the museum, and everyone needed the sleep. We walked around this really cool estate that used to house a bunch of famous writers and artists. I took a bunch of pictures and the countryside is really beautiful. I will post them when I get back.

After the museum, we were fortunate enough to go to the country house, dacha, of one of our language instructors. Unfortunately for us it started to rain and there was a ton of work that needed to get done so we could eat supper. Ended up cutting fire wood, grilling sashlik (shishkabobs), and digging a hole to install a small pond for fish and sitting by.....in the rain in 45F weather. The meal was awesome. Sashlik, lavash (basically tortillas), green onions, cumbers and tomato salad, vodka, wine, and beer. I really enjoyed the day and the view of the trees and countryside was amazing.

It's not hard to see why people call this home, inspite of bone crushing cold in the winter.

Saturday night, we went to Karma Bar in the Lubyanka district. WHOAH! What an evening. The DJ spun really cool music all night, and the crowd was intense. It is one of those clubs with multiple rooms, but basically, people dance, sit on couches and talk, drink, and smoked flavored tobacco from a hooka, all at once...Escaped the club at 730am!!

Sunday afternoon.....(you know where the day went....haha) went to Kitai Gorot, China Town, which in Moscow has only german architechture, and has no chinese residents.....figure that out!
Ate at a very cool cafe called Art Garbage, and hung out with my good friend Andreas from Munich, Germany, and Jona from our group. Had tons of laughs and learned survival phrases in german. You know the important stuff like...no beer before 4 in the afternoon, but just this once we'll make an exception!! hahaha.

Monday was class! Learned a lot. Vocab is getting better. I am getting better communicating in the street. The confidence is coming back.

Tuesday was the same. In the evening another mystery occured... not sure how it happened, but 20-30 people ended up in our room until 5 in the morning telling jokes, and hanging out. Had a few friends over and a party broke out....happens.

Wednesday was another exursion, more musuems where you can't take photos. Ended up in the North of Moscow and got ripped off by the cafe where we ate lunch. Couldn't be a real trip until you have been scammed by a restuarant because you can't argue over the bill. On the bright side, we saw the biggest farris wheel in Moscow and the Cosmonaut museum.

Today is Thursday. So far so good. The weather is warming up. I have been fortunate enough to see life happening before me today. This afternoon I heard yelling out the window, and went to see what it was. We live on the 14th floor, and down in the parking lot was a young guy in his 20's wearing a suit and holding flowers, yelling his girlfriends name, NADIA, up 18 floors of a 22 story building. His best friend, also in a suit, was standing next to him for support. When she came to the window, he told her he loved her and asked her to marry him...up 18 floors....not sure how it worked out, but hopefully it all went well. Got to hand it to the brother, he was going for broke. It's another day in Moscow.

Post more soon.